Driving in the snow is no walk in the park; but I guess that's obvious considering that one involves driving and the other walking. It's more like walking in Needle Park in the 70's at about 2 in the morning; very dangerous. There are definitely a few guidelines you must follow to survive.
Go slow. It doesn't matter if you've got snow tires, chains, or studded tires on your vehicle. Slow down to 10 or 15 mph. Always remember that too many other drivers don't know how to drive on snow and think that special tires or chains allow them to drive at the speed limit. Hills are killers, whether you're going up or down. Avoid hills if at all possible, even if it means driving two or three miles farther. No matter whether your vehicle is front- or rear-wheel drive, put about 100 pounds of additional weight (cinder blocks, bricks, sandbags, etc.) in your trunk or as far as possible to the rear of your vehicle's rear axle. This will add significantly to the traction your rear wheels will be able to obtain on snow (McCraw 1). If you have sand in the trunk, you can use it to free yourself by spreading some on the ice-covered street.
If your vehicle starts to overheat (this applies to any weather condition and outdoor temperature), turn on your car heater and fan full blast. The heater acts as a heat sink for the hot water source.
Make sure you have decent tires. "Yul Brynner specials" (bald tires) or high performance tires (which are almost as bad as baldies in snow and ice) are to be avoided. All-season tires are fine, but for maximum grip (if you live in a part of the country with serious winter weather), the small hassle of switching over to specific-use snow tires is a smart move (AAA.com). A set of four snow tires is a whole lot cheaper than a $5,000 bodyshop bill (and increased insurance premiums that might go with that).
Take the bus/train/whatever (or bum a ride) if you drive any kind of sports car. The combination of perfo...